Posts Tagged ‘DIY’

Wyze Camera – Mini Butterbot – Rick & Morty

Thursday, September 6th, 2018

New baby at home so I am getting some use out of an old IP camera I placed in the nursery. My wife and I enjoyed it so much, I looked into adding a second. What I found was so cute, I 3D printed some arms and gave some wire touches.

The IP camera I was using was a Foscam FI8910W with a resolution of 640*480px, full pan/tilt, and 3rd party app compatibility. Old enough that it has no cloud features and if you want to access remotly, you better know how to add exceptions to your firewall.

Simply typing ip camera into amazon, the first non-sponsored result turned out to be a $25 marvel. The Wyze Cam. Full 1080HD, offline recording, Alexa. Perfect. Testing it out, the quality was fantastic. Remote access needed zero setup. Alexa setup just needed some basic steps to add the skill and link my account.

The base is magnetic with a pop out stand. Even though I recently watched Wall-E, instead this cube shape camera reminded me of the Butter Bot from Rick and Morty.

I made a trip to thingiverse to 3D print the appropriate arms. I drilled holes in the sides of the camera to attached the arms with a machine screw and washers. Thus, making the arms posable!

Project time: 15 minutes.

MiniNES: NFC Wiring Diagram

Tuesday, December 6th, 2016

This wiring guide matches the .ino arduino code titled “NESPi NDEF Reader/Power Controlller v0.1 [mike.g|jun2016]” and python code titled “NESPi Cart Reader v0.1 by mike.g”. Be sure to test the rPi power circuit with a multimeter after assembling before wiring into your rPi.

http://www.daftmike.com/2016/07/NESPi.html

Note 1: This schematic is a draft, see comments for latest revision.
Note 2: The MOSFET part numbers listed are for surface mount kind, you can substitute with most any through hole package that supports 5 volts or more.
Note 3: This wiring diagram will become outdated if and when Mike posts updated arduino code.

No automatic alt text available.

Ghostbusters 2016 Proton Pack

Tuesday, August 30th, 2016

Proton Packs are special for me.  A proton pack was the first costume prop I ever made and was very much a junk build.  Working light and sound circuits and only the alice frame is screen accurate.  I worked on mine in parallel with my brother, so we could both be Ghostbusters for Halloween 2008.  I have been making props and commission circuits ever since.

My original proton pack took me 3 months to research and construct, start to finish.  So when my wife told me she wanted to be Ghostbusters for Halloween 2016, my reaction was to skip the proton pack for her costume.  Stick to the jumpsuit and arm patches, then she can borrow my PKE meter for the night.  But as the wedding date came and went, I found a youtube video by indy mogul of a junk build.  That was all the inspiration I needed.  Some quick research on gbfans in the Reboot Pack parts identification thread and I was able to complete my wife’s proton pack in 8 days.

If you would like to make one of these. All my plans, references, part lists, source code, etc… are on Google Drive.

Light Animation Demo Video

 

Reboot Ghostbusters Proton Pack

 

Links to my original proton pack builds:

My Ghostbuster's Proto Pack

Guide: Boba Fett Chest Display

Saturday, January 2nd, 2016

If you are making a Boba Fett costume, the display on the chest piece can be especially troubling.  Outside of a one or two available on thedentedhelmet.com, there isn’t a lot available.  Leaving a builder to come up with alternate displays.  Such as using a decal or placing a light behind a printed graphic on transparency sheet.  Cheap and it looks ok, but is not animated.  An animated display is much more appealing.

In this guide, we will go over how to create an animated display for the boba fett’s chest armor.  You will need at least beginner soldering skills to complete the circuit.  All the parts add up to less than $40.

Boba Fett Chest Display v2

Tools:

  • Solder Iron & Solder
  • Wire Cutter
  • Solder Wick

Part List:

  • 2 – Red LED Bargraph Displays
  • 5 – Red LED 0.3″ CA 7seg Displays
  • 5 – 33 ohm resistors
  • 5 – 1k ohm resistors
  • 5 – NPN Transistors
  • 1 – 1uF capacitor
  • 1 – 10k ohm resistor
  • 1 – AA Battery Holder w/ Switch
  • Some wire (to connect the boards)

You can purchase all the above from mouser, use this link for a ‘one click purchase’ part list:  https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=7c6a316116

Lastly, you will also need the two PCBs and a programmed chip.  I sell the custom parts for cheap.  Email me for details.  thatdecade@gmail.com

Alternately, if you have means to program chips yourself (arduino), you can purchase the custom parts yourself.  Source code can be found on codebender.

Assembly:

Once you have gathered all the parts, you can begin putting it together.  Start with the bargraph board.

  • Examine a bargraph display part and look for the small notch in one corner, this marks the anode side.
  • Examine the bargraph display PCB.  With the bargraph picture side facing you and the 6pin connector on the left, the top is the anode and the bottom is the cathode.

bargraph_circuit_outline

  • Solder the two bargraphs into place, being careful to install right side up.  They will not function is installed upside down.

Next is to solder the rear parts on to the main board.

  • The row of ten resistors at the top are labeled 1k and 50.  The part list does not include 50 ohm resistors.  Instead any value from 33 to 47 may be used, lower is brighter.
    • Solder on the 5 x 1k ohm resistors to the spots marked with 1k.
    • Solder on the 5 x 47 ohm resistors to the spots marked with 50.
  •  The next row down are the transistors.  Orient the transistors so the flat side faces the same way as pictured. Solder them in place.
    Optionally, after inserting each transistor into the board, you can fold it down flat against the board before soldering.  Thinner circuit is easier to install in your chest piece.
  • The remaining two parts are the capacitor and 10k resistor.  Solder in place where indicated.
  • Clean up.  Turn the board around and clip the excess leads off.

main_circuit_back_outline

Now to solder the front parts on the main board.

  • Examine a digit display part, look for the small notch. This marks the orientation.
  • Insert each of the 5 displays, but do not solder down yet.  Double check that they are inserted right side up. They will not function is installed upside down.
  • You may now solder the displays.  The solder points are between the resistors on the other side.  Use the solder wick to clean up any unintentional solder connections.
  • The final part to go on the front of the main board is the chip.  Again, note the notch for the orientation.

main_circuit_front_outline

Last is to wire the two boards together and power up.

  • Figure how much space you need between the two displays.
  • Examine the area on each board labeled display connector.  The line next to one of the pins indicates orientation.
  • Cut 6 wires to cover the distance between the connectors adding an extra inch for positioning.
  • Solder each of the six wires, positioning pin 1 to pin 1, pin 2 to pin 2, and so on
  • Connect the battery pack, the wires are color coded. Red goes to +, Black goes to -.  Do not mix these up, you will destroy the chip.

fett_display_wiring

Power it up and enjoy!

 

View post on imgur.com

Supernatural EMF Reader

Monday, November 10th, 2014

This is a summary post of my finished “revision 1” EMF Reader from Supernatural.  For revisions 2 and 3, please email me for the latest instructions.

Below you will find the following sections:

  • Description and Pictures
  • Part List
  • Rough Step by Step Build Instructions

IMG_2709.JPG

 

Description and Background:

The EMF Reader in Supernatural is an excellent project for people like me that have some electrical knowledge. What I did was design a prop EMF reader around the Arduino platform so that it is actually functional while still looking like the prop from Supernatural.

I went to my local hardware store and bought an analog multimeter. After taking it apart, I played with it on an Arduino board and figured that it was possible to make a functional EMF reader using some off the shelf parts. I could even have the circuit play the telltale “erREEEEErr” sound on a speaker.

I finished the prototype circuit and proceeded to sourcing all the parts and designing a printed circuit board (PCB) that would do everything I wanted.

I measured the analog meter part with my caliper to ensure a good fit with the custom PCB.

In addition, this thread was very useful for finding reference pictures: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=115093

Functionality:

  • Meter with a pin that bounces to high when triggered
  • Five top LEDs that match meter display
  • Speaker that makes tone sweep sounds
  • Hidden trigger button to override EMF “readings”
  • Mode selector switch
  • When not activated, the lights will blink every few seconds to indicate the meter is on.

Pictures of my Completed Supernatural EMF Reader:

Link to full album on flickr.

http://www.westaby.net/wp-content/uploads/15611186946_f8a3560308.jpg

http://www.westaby.net/wp-content/uploads/15449301180_905d6d813a_m.jpg http://www.westaby.net/wp-content/uploads/15014108624_855726fd42_m.jpg

http://www.westaby.net/wp-content/uploads/15428820969_2bdd7f5ca8_m.jpg http://www.westaby.net/wp-content/uploads/15448890837_1fa282bb9e_m.jpg

 

Step by step build instructions

Review the part list is on google docs: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1utMpaAC1ZA9goVU3gp6g81bixKeKB2StwvKHZPLGDF8/edit?usp=sharing

Once you have gathered all the parts, it is time to assemble. This does require minor solder skills.

If you have never soldered before, it’s easy! Get a $5 solder iron from the hardware store and the thinnest solder spool you can find. Then watch some YouTube videos to see how it’s done. Through hole soldering of big solder points (like in this project) is great for learning.

Salvage Parts and Test the Fit

Analog Meter

Take apart the multimeter to get at the analog mechanism inside. You will need the clear plastic from the front, the needle rotor, and the thumbwheel.

Cut a hole in the prototype board and do a “test fit” of the rotor. Make sure that it can spin freely. Eventually, it will be bolted down with washers to ensure the needle has enough clearance to move above the surface.

Switches and Knobs

Put all the various parts where you think they should go. Make sure that you have enough room for everything where you want them before you start soldering parts into place.

Assemble the functioning portion of the circuit

Arduino

You have two choices to get the circuit functioning. Use an Arduino Pro Mini or use an Atmega328p chip. The Arduino is easier and recommended. I chose the Atmega328p chip because I was using a custom made prototype board that had wires pre-routed to the various switches.

  • Advantages of the Arduino Pro Mini: Easy to use and program over USB using the Arduino software. Use this for your source code: https://codebender.cc/sketch:56076
    Note: there are 4 files to download.
  • If you choose the Atmega328p Chip, things get a little more complicated (you are on your own). More info here: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Standalone
  • If you purchased a circuit board from Dustin (me), then there is nothing you need to do.  Your circuit is preprogrammed.

Mode Select Switch

Solder in place the toggle switch. Depending on your Arduino, pull up resistors may be required. More info here: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/pull-up-resistors/what-is-a-pull-up-resistor

Wire one of the toggle switch’s two side pins to pin 2 on the Arduino. The center is the common pin, wire to ground on the Arduino.

LEDs

Install the 5 LEDs at the top of the prototype board. The short lead from the LED goes to ground. The long lead from the LED goes to the Arduino.

Wire the LEDs to the Arduino pins in the following order: 2,4,6,7,8 (pin 5 is reserved for the meter output)

You can also install the white and yellow dummy square capacitors now if you like. These are cosmetic only and are not wired to the circuit. Solder them to the prototype board normally.

Cover the LED leads with electrical tape. This too is cosmetic, but also helps hold the LEDs down when you are handling the EMF reader.

Meter Potentiometer

Solder in place a blue square potentiometer. This will be used to adjust the meter sensitivity.

http://www.westaby.net/wp-content/uploads/14942253803_4190afceca_m.jpg

Pictured is my custom PCB. If you are using a different prototype PCB board, yours will look different.

Analog Meter

Install the meter onto the PCB, use two washers between the meter and the PCB to give the needle more clearance over the surface. Attach the meter using 2 screws, 8 washers, and 2 hex standoffs.

The washers on the backside of the PCB will help spread out the squeeze from the screw and hex standoff.

Wire the red wire from the meter to the analog output pin 5 of the Arduino through a potentiometer. The black wire goes to ground.

The potentiometer is used to “tune” the max point of the meter. The analog meter has a screw in the center; this is used to set the min point of the meter.

Later, when you are ready to power up, you can adjust the potentiometer with a screw driver until it performs right.

Printed Graphic

Download the .psd file here: https://www.mediafire.com/?cm0quv5bc5d9qa2

Print onto peel and stick adhesive photo paper, then trim the print then stick on the protoboard behind the meter’s needle.

http://www.westaby.net/wp-content/uploads/15580793151_c6274679b2_m.jpg

Use hot glue or epoxy to affix the clear plastic cover over the meter.

Assemble the cosmetic portion of the circuit

Capacitors

There are two round capacitors in the upper left corner of the board. Solder them in place. It is ok if they are not straight up and down.

Thumbwheel

Solder on the thumbwheel below the meter.

Antenna P-Clips

Place the antenna clips on the antenna and drill the prototype board so you can eventually bolt the antenna in place. Do not bolt down yet. Right now we just need to get the spacing between the P-clips in the correct position.

Coil 1

The first coil goes on the right hand side of the meter. Use your magnet wire to create this coil by winding the 22 gauge bare copper wire around a pen or screwdriver. Once the coil is long enough, cut off the excess and solder down.

With the coil soldered down, re-insert your pen or screwdriver and straighten the coil out.

Coil 2 (antenna)

The second coil is wrapped around the antenna between the two Pclips. Use the red magnet wire. This wire is a lot thinner and will take many layers. Just keep wrapping around until your coil looks right.

Antenna Bolts

It is now time to bolt the antenna in place. Use the screws, washers, and nuts.

Rainbow Wire

Take approximately 10 inches of rainbow ribbon wire and split them apart into separate strands. Half of the strands will run from the top right to the lower left. The second half of the strands will run from the lower right to the lower left.

Use more of the 22 gauge bare copper wire to create U shaped cable ties. Thread the ribbon wire under the U, then press down with a plyers and solder the U wire down.

If you look closely in the pictures, you can see these cable ties are used in the corners to hold down the ribbon cable.

Final Hex Standoffs and Battery Holder

Place the last two hex standoffs between the LEDs. With all four hex standoffs now attached, use them as a guide to cut holes into the battery holder and affix the battery holder to the EMF reader with more screws and washers.

http://www.westaby.net/wp-content/uploads/15459480888_dd5be5f505_n.jpg

http://www.westaby.net/wp-content/uploads/15014108624_855726fd42_n.jpg

Sound and Speaker

Pin 11 from the Arduino outputs the sound. However, if you connect a speaker directly to pin 11 and ground, you will have little volume. You need a speaker amplifier.

The PAM8403 is a cheap (under $2) small amplifier board. Wire the amplifier board to the battery power input, 4.5 volts. Then wire pin 11 from the Arduino into the input of the amplifier board. Lastly, wire the two wires from the speaker into the amplifier board’s output.

http://www.westaby.net/wp-content/uploads/15024643424_00064fb169_n.jpg

Marvel Arc Reactor Shirt: Modification

Friday, July 13th, 2012

I have dabbled with arc reactor costuming before, so when I learned of an official licensed arc reactor shirt from Marvel I jumped at the opportunity.  What I got was a good product.  Plenty bright to be seen behind a black shirt.  The arc reactor runs on AAA batteries and is velcro removable for washing the shirt.

I bought mine from ThinkGeek for $30.

The only problem I found with the shirt was the shirt itself.  The arc reactor is not heavy but is enough that it pulls down the collar of the shirt, making it sit awkward on your chest.  In addition, the shirt wasn’t comfortable.  I wear a large, so I ordered a large.  For a large, the shirt felt tight in all the wrong places.

Since I loved this simple arc reactor, I decided to do a little project using my previous experience and convert the arc reactor to a standalone wearable without the shirt. Assuring that the arc reactor will sit centered on my chest without drooping.

Tools Needed

  • Scissors
  • Drill
  • Pliers / Tweezers

Build Part List

  • Official Marvel: Tony Stark Light up LED Iron Man Shirt
  • Nylon Rope
  • Double-Sided Tape, Optional

Start by removing the arc reactor from the shirt, the velco pulls easily.  Pop the cord out from the battery back (small clip connector), don’t force.  Then de-thread the wire from the inner cloth of the shirt.

104_7379.JPG

With the arc reactor removed from the shirt you can now pry off the top casing of the arc reactor. The top casing is held on by some adhesive but gives way with some mild force.

Top removed

Can turn on the lights to check you didn’t break anything. Overall, is durable, but you never know about those LEDs. Plus it looks cool :P

Four drill holes

Time to break out the drill. The smooth plastic surface is a little difficult to drill into, a pilot hole would help. You need to be very careful when drilling into the back casing. The LEDs and reflector are close to the casing wall. Do not drill holes into either of these, only drill a hole into the back casing wall.

First rope added

Thread the first length of rope. The length should be long enough to wrap around your arm to chest, can always trim down later. I made mine 3 feet each. Nylon twine likes to unravel when cut, I used a tweezers to help push all the fibers through the hole.

Threading the strap

Thread the rope through to the next hole. Two for the left strap. Two for the right strap. When pulling the rope through, be sure that the rope ends up behind the LEDs and metallic reflector. The rope in front would cause unwanted shadows.

Rubber diffuser removed

Now that your rope is pulled through into place, but not yet tied in a know for sizing, it is time to put the lid back on the arc reactor assembly. The adhesive on the top cover is still good. Use double-sided tape to re-attach if needed (I didn’t).

When placing the cover back on, alignment is important. The rubber diffuser has grooves to follow, is easy to align with the top cover. Aligning the top cover with diffuser attached to the rear casing is more tricky. I found it easier to do this with the LEDs turned on.

Hold the cover as close to the casing as you can without sticking the adhesive, then line up the shadows in the light with the black portions of the top lid.

Straps need trimming and knots

You should now have a nearly completed wearable arc reactor. Just need to size the strapping to your body. Take your arc reactor rig to a mirror. Place the arc reactor where you want it on your chest, then loop one of the straps around one of your arms.

Pull the strap tight and pinch the spot with your fingers, then take off the rig and tie a knot in that spot.

Repeat for the second strap.

Once all done, the arc reactor should be centered on your chest and feel snug but not tight. If you tie the knot in the wrong place, un-tie and try again.

The last step is trimming the excess rope. Leaving an inch or two for future adjustments.

Wearing

I took more pictures during this project. You can view them on my flickr: Marvel Arc Reactor Shirt: Modification