DIY Records for the Fisher Price Music Box Record Player

I did a lot of research in April 2019 to make my own fisher price record of Baby Shark. Using the research from fred27 and improved upon by Tycho.

I created my own method using excel to compose a song and OpenSCAD to generate the record 3d object.

Before we get into that, some history.

What is the Fisher Price Music Box Record Player?

It is a toy record player sold in the 1970s and 1980s that plays plastic records without batteries. The songs are actually encoded on the records and the mechanism is wind up. So if you have a smarty pants kid they could observe the record player and figure out how it works. Over the years, a whole bunch of new records were made available. More info.

This is not the 2017 re-release of the “Fisher Price Music Box Record Player” #ad That was an mp3 player. Running on AA with all the songs stored on the device. The records themselves were keyed to play the right song from memory. The records are not expandable with new songs.

DIY References

Back in 2012, Fred Murphy released “Fred’s Fisher Price record editor” to instructables. It was really remarkable work. The zip included an exe that allowed you to see the song you are composing, play it back to test, then generate the .scad file to be turned into a 3d object printable record! The biggest problem is that it only allows you to generate regularly spaced notes and the output .scad file were hard to read. With x,y,rotate info given for each pin.

Four years later, Tycho made additional progress and provided a python script to convert .midi files. I had mixed success with the midi converter. Tycho never stated what he used for a midi editor, I tried several tools, but wasn’t really able to duplicate his success. Unlike Fred’s release which still works out of the box, all the way in 2020.

What I really liked about Tycho’s release was the .scad template. Each pin is assigned a note name so that you can create a composition by entering a list of note names and spacing between notes. Each composition is divided into steps of the song. Each note has a spacing next to it, that is the spacing of how long until the next note starts. Plus the back of the record is flat and easier to print!

My Contribution

Using Tycho’s .scad as a template I did some modifications to make it easier to generate. I renamed the notes to match the actual note names for each toy record player’s track pins. Leaving the missing pins commented out, maybe they will be useful someday. There are also the duplicate note pins, so the toy record player can play some notes faster without jamming. My excel sheet automatically makes use of the duplicate pins when it detects repeating notes.

The excel sheet I wrote allows me to compose a song similar to sheet writing without needing a dedicated exe. Write the duration of a note where you want it on the scale, and the excel math will determine the note name (or duplicate note name) and duration offset to add before playing the next note.

Humming the notes of the song, while duplicating my sheet music in an online music maker, got me a rather nice playable version of Baby Shark. I had a friend 3d print it for me, and it is still my daughter’s favorite record.

Source Files:

I did a google search today and found a few more folks pursuing making their own records using their own methods. Awesome to see others also investing time to improve the diy methods. I added links to their project pages below.


2012: 3D Printing Records for a Fisher Price Toy Record Player By Fred Murphy (fred27)

2016: Module to make Fisher Price Music Box records By Tycho

2018: FisherPriceRecords by Charles Céleste Hutchins (celesteh)

2019: Music box tune tracker by DREVET Olivier (odrevet)

2020: Fisher Price Record Maker by Bernie Bernstone (bbernstone)

Making a mount for the Wyze Doorbell Camera

I need a slightly different mount than the default plate included with my smart doorbell. Something to conform to the molding around my door and mate with the doorbell itself. 3D printing will do the job well.

To make a 3D print that perfectly mates with something requires specific measurements. Typically, you need the item in hand and you measure with a digital caliper and then gives those dimensions to your CAD drawing. The Wyze Doorbell Camera is a already a great product from a great company, but it doesn’t ship for 3 months.

Time to do a little reverse engineering and create a configurable SCAD script. I can create a mating adapter and use some rough measurements now to be filled in with the actual measurements later.

To get the rough measurements, we just do some basic math based on the photos provided. I see a rectangle and four circles, plus four clip hooks.

Wyze provided the external dimensions, so we just have to count the pixels and can reverse engineer the other dimensions and placements. Photo shows finding of the edge radius.

Game Cabinet Lighting with Neopixels

I put together some ikea cube shelving and wanted a place to keep my game consoles while also displaying them. I started with 3d printing some vertical stands for the PS4 and WiiU along with some controller hangers and riser shelves. I then added puck lights to the surrounding shelves, but wanted special lighting for the game shelves.

Neopixel Ring Puck Lights

Using some spare puck lights, neopixel rings, and a trinket I created some smart puck lighting that responds to which game system is powered. Power up the PS4 and the shelves are bathed in blue light. Power up the WiiU and the shelves turn cyan. Power both, and get both blue and cyan.

The trinket input pins are wired to multiple USB cables to monitor if the game console is on or off. The PS4 will continue to power usb in standby, so be sure to turn off or disable usb power in standby in the power saving settings.

Project details are on github:

Update: November 2020

I made this light with three USB cables, planning to get an Xbox One X when the series X came out and everyone was looking to sell theirs cheap. I did get an Xbox One X cheap and plugged it into the third USB cable. That’s when I made a discovery.

Unlike the PS4 and WiiU that can be configured to turn off USB ports to save power when off, the xbox cannot. Wow, that sucks. Really breaks my light, as it always lights green now. Doh.

I dabbled on paper with the idea of installing my own clamp current meter to the xbox’s power cable and switching the lights on that. The workaround I actually went with is the same trick I used to switch power for the lights and speaker amp on my arcade machine running a raspberry pi. I use something called Smart Strip. Capable of switching outlets off when the main device is off. Credit for the idea here.

Using the smart spike strip, I can power a USB power brick only when the xbox is actually on.

Here is the one I am using. #ad

Changing Win10 Application Icons

In all previous revisions of windows, you could simply right click on any shortcut and change the icon as you please. Windows 10 still allows you to do this, but applications installed from the Windows Store are missing this ability.

Unlike normal shortcuts, windows 10 applications do not have the option to change icons. Right click one and all you can do is visit App Settings or Rate and Review. You will not find Shortcut Properties and no way to Change Icon. You are the mercy of the developer to set the app icon (the worst feature on smartphones).

Default Icon Set

If you drag a win10 store app, such as Calculator, to the desktop a Shortcut is created. You can see the Target is Microsoft.WindowsCalculator and can even change the icon. However, dragging this shortcut back to the start menu or taskbar converts the shortcut back into the default App Icon.

If you search google, you can find the real location of the exe for a win10 store app. Here are some common ones:

  • C:\Windows\SysWOW64\calc.exe
  • C:\Windows\SysWOW64\notepad.exe
  • C:\Windows\SysWOW64\mspaint.exe
  • C:\Windows\System32\SnippingTool.exe

Create a brand new shortcut to the exe location and set the icon, then drag onto the start menu or taskbar. Done.

Modified Icon

Prusa MK3S ~ Stop Button

This was a one day build. I leave my printer running unattended and I know that others in my home would have trouble finding the reset button or off switch if/when something went wrong. Solution, add a big friendly stop button.

Remixed control panel

I have built several arcade machines over the years, so I had plenty of control panel buttons. This is a 46mm 12V red button. I pulled apart the switch and swapped the built in resistor to be 100 ohms, so I could run from 5V.

Prusa’s 3D printers are open source. Even better, they design their 3D printed parts using openscad. My favorite 3D CAD program.

I grabbed the LCD-cover-ORIGINAL-MK3.scad file and modified so the length of the face was a parameter. Then added the button hole and swapped the text. You can download my file here: LCD-cover-MK3_ArcadeReset.scad

The button’s LED is wired into the LCD pins labeled VDD (5V) and VSS (GND). The button’s switch is wired to replace the existing X Reset button.

The reset wiring goes from the LCD PCB to the EINSY controller to the Reset pin of the Atmega2560 chip. This pin could be reprogrammed to do something other than hard reset the chip. However, that would make future firmware updates tricky. So I left the firmware alone.

Portable Solder Iron

On a whim, I purchased a $20 USB Solder Iron from Aliexpress to play with. After playing with it using an old phone charger, I saw a video on Adam Savage’s Tested channel and got inspired. Drill Batteries as the power source. What a great idea! I have lots of those and always keep a few charged up and ready for projects.

However, finding a drill battery adapter for my Black and Decker 20V set was a challenge. It’s all discontinued. Black and Decker only sell new bluetooth batteries with USB ports built in. No adapters to be found. Searching for a solution, I found forum posts saying that black and decker 20V batteries and craftsman 20V batteries are made by the same company and are compatible. So I purchased a craftsman 20V USB adapter only to find that it did not fit my black and decker batteries. Bummer!

I junked the craftsman 20V USB adapter for parts. Salvaging the circuit and battery blades. Now I just needed a new plastic case to 3d print. There are a few on thingiverse that said craftsman/black and decker compatible… I printed them and surprise! they did not fit my black and decker batteries either. So I ended up making my own in openscad. You can download it here:

After some sanding, painting, and adding decals. I ended up with an awesome finished product.  I even added a spare volt meter display for some extra coolness.




I showed my creation to a few colleagues.  Everyone was impressed.  One of them shared their own solution using the TS100.  I played with it and instantly fell in love.  Wow. The TS100 is hands down the best portable solder iron I have ever seen.  The open source firmware makes it extra awesome.

So when my dad saw my portable solder iron and asked me to make him one too, I jumped at the opportunity to get him the TS100 and an adapter for his drill battery set.  Luckily, he had Milwaukee brand and I could just purchase the right adapter.  No extra leg work.  It all just plugs into each other.

For anyone else who wants a portable solder iron using 20V drill batteries, here is the part list.

TS100 Solder Iron

The TS100 solder iron is popular and easy to find.   It is about $40-50 for the iron.  They sell sets with the iron and accessories for $60-100.  Watch out for which tip is included in the description.  The B2 tip is a pencil tip, the BC2 tip is wedge shaped, and the TS-I is like a needle.

Battery Adapters

Search for your drill brand + usb adapter.  Look for one that has a barrel jack in the photos.  That will give you access to the full voltage from the battery.  Here are some I found that have the barrel jack.

If you can’t find a battery adapter with a barrel jack, you can buy one with just usb.  Open it up and install your own barrel jack.  The 5V from USB is painfully slow to use for soldering.  You want 12-20volts.


To connect the battery to the iron, you need a male to male barrel jack cable.  The iron is 5.5mm OD x 2.5mm ID.  The barrel jack on the battery adapter will either be 5.5×2.5 or 5.5×2.1.  The 5.5×2.5 plug cable will fit in a 5.5×2.1 jack.  So a 5.5×2.5mm to 5.5×2.5mm cable is your best bet.  A 5.5×2.1 to 5.5×2.1 cable will not work.  A 5.5×2.5 to 5.5×2.1 cable might be ok, but depends on your battery adapter socket.  If you are worried, check the product description for barrel jack dimensions. Then get the matching cable.

I like digikey, because I can search for exact matching cables.

Barrel Jacks

This is optional.  If your battery adapter doesn’t have a barrel jack, is easy to add one.  Just pop open the casing and wire it up to the 20V.  The positive wire attaches to the center post of the barrel jack.

Wifi sucks and How to fix

Do you experience periodic internet dropouts or wifi devices slow or not working sometimes, the only solution being to wait it out or unplug and replug in your router? There is a better way.

This is a fix it and explanation guide for why your wifi internet sucks.  I have a lot of CenturyLink specific advice, but the wifi fixes are for everyone.

My story:
When CenturyLink’s wifi router was in command of my network, I would have to power cycle on a weekly basis, sometimes multiple times a day. Even when the internet light was on, several of my devices wouldn’t connect. Later on, I traced the issue to a rogue android wifi device that was changing its MAC address daily, combined with the CenturyLink router’s default setting to reserve IP addresses forever. Once full, new devices have to fight for ip addresses, kicking each other off. What a nightmare.

In March 2018, I tossed my CenturyLink provided wifi router and replaced with my own. Ever since, I have not had to power cycle the router once.

Here is my current setup (more info later):
CenturyLink ONT (converts fiber to ethernet)
Two Access Points:


What is the main reason my internet breaks?
Wifi and Routing are both important and intensive tasks. The wifi router combo device sometimes can’t keep up with all its duties and drops important messages. Not a big deal, devices will just try again, with the addition of some lag. However, sometimes the message that is dropped is an important system message from CenturyLink. At which point, your router will stop working entirely. You can either wait until the next time that system message is broadcast, minutes to hours later, or you can power cycle and force the system update.

Why does my wifi drop out?
This can be complicated. Wifi interference, compatibility, and coverage are the common culprits. Your modem broadcasts two wifi networks. A faster 5Ghz wifi and an longer range 2.4Ghz wifi. When walking around your home, your device may be trying to switch between these two networks. The switchover takes time, and your device will appear to freeze up for a few seconds.  Switchover issues are always the device’s fault, not your wifi network, but you can take steps to minimize.  Start by moving your wifi router to a high center location in your home. The corner of your basement is the worst choice.


Solutions that really work

Change wifi channel from default – this is the main fix for apartment dwellers. Your wifi using neighbors are crowding the default wifi channels. Get yourself a wifi analyzer app for your phone. The app will tell you what wifi channels are congested and which are unused. Change your wifi channel to an unused one. If you want to be nice to your neighbors, you can also turn down the antenna power. Bonus points, if you convince your interfering neighbor to do the same.

Move your wifi router to a common location.  High up on a shelf between your bedroom and livingroom / kitchen is a good choice.  The default location most installers choose is right next to the ONT in the basement.  That is the worst location for wifi coverage.  The other corner of your home will have poor coverage.  Outside you will have poor coverage.  Moving your wifi router to the 1st or 2nd floor will do wonders.  If that is not enough, and you are considering an wifi repeater or extender, don’t.  Check out the hardware recommendations below.

Dust off and ventilate your router – Your router is a little computer. It generates heat and collects dust. After 2-4 years, the dust will cover the heat sinks inside the router and it will overheat and crash. Spray the router with canned air or use a vacuum on the vents, clear out some of the dust.  Other causes of overheating are from burying the router in a cabinet. A router requires open air to cool itself.

New hardware – I cover new hardware in the next section below. The reason that new hardware works better than a wifi router from CenturyLink is that you are separating the intensive tasks of routing and wifi management to multiple devices. Each with its own powerful unshared resources. When a critical system message comes in, it is not dropped. Your network has resources to spare.
What do I mean by resources? Internet bandwidth, router cpu cycles, router memory, router throughput and buffers.

Replace the ONT battery backup with a regular wall power plug. – This is an odd one that is cropping up in Platteville. The ONT is the device inside your home that converts the fiber wire to ethernet. Some fiber installers used a battery backup on the ONT, which is only required for phone service. These battery backups will eventually stop working and need replacement. At which point, your ONT will receive unstable power and require frequent power cycles to keep online.  You can call CenturyLink to fix, or you can try to fix yourself. The battery backup can be removed and replaced with a generic wall plug that won’t wear out. Make sure to check voltage and polarity markings on the ONT.

Hard reset your router to factory settings. – This is a last ditch effort to get your router back to working like it did on day one. After a factory restore, to reconnect to the internet you will need to enter your CenturyLink network username and password. This is not printed on your router’s sticker and is not your web account. You will have to ask CenturyLink support to provide it to you. Use the online chat for speedier help, also allows you to copy and paste.


New Hardware

Ok, so the above solutions don’t cost any money. A new router / access point will cost you in the range of $100 – $500. My recommendation costs $140 for a new router and single wifi access point. Plus whatever you pay for added cables and an extra $80 for a second wifi access point to improve coverage (overkill). You can find these cheaper if you buy used or wait for a sale.

Reasons to buy your own router:

  • You have a price lock, but the router rental fee keeps increasing each year
  • You experience internet dropouts more often than you would like
  • Your wifi speed is slow, even in the same room

Reasons not to buy your own router:

  • You will need some basic networking experience. PM me if you get stuck, I can walk you through most setups. YouTube is also a good resource.
  • You already own your CenturyLink router and do not pay rental fees. You may still benefit from keeping the router, disabling wifi and adding your own access point.
  • This guide is for fiber customers, if you have DSL PM me. I can get you the model numbers you need. RadioShack also carries DSL routers for CenturyLink.

Features to look for in a new router:

  • VLAN Tagging – CenturyLink needs the VLAN ID set to 201 on a replacement router
  • Gigabit – Even if you don’t pay for gigabit, you will benefit from the additional resources
  • Dual Core – You want each device to be powerful. With resources to spare running your network.
  • Smart Queue Management – Better than QoS

Features to watch out for:

  • Mesh wifi – Sounds good on paper, but if you need multiple access points you are much better off running a cable to each location and setting up your own wifi on multiple frequencies using access points. To run the mesh, each hub needs use wireless bandwidth to communicate with the other hubs. You are not running full speed.  You can get around this by running an ethernet cable to each hub.  If you are going that far, why are you paying extra for the mesh feature?
    In addition, popular mesh wifi products are not compatible with CenturyLink. The Google onhub doesn’t support VLAN Tagging.  It cannot connect directly to CenturyLink’s network. You can use onhub as mesh wifi, but you still need your CenturyLink router.
  • Wireless Repeaters / Extenders – Same as mesh.  These will do in a pinch, but will slow down your speeds and consume resources.


Here is my exact setup. I use a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter-X and two Ubiquiti Ap-AC Lite access points. You do not have to duplicate my exact setup, any gigabit router that supports VLAN Tagging is compatible with CenturyLink’s fiber home network. I like Ubiquiti’s products. They sell enterprise grade networking hardware priced to compete with consumer products. The only gripe with Ubiquiti is that you need to be comfortable navigating router web setup pages. There are plenty of guides, search on youtube for some good ones. Read the manual.

Router: Ubiquiti EdgeRouter-X
Access Point: Ubiquiti Ap-AC Lite

I am a big fan of seperate devices for router and access point. The router can concentrate on only managing traffic on your network. The wifi access points can concentrate on only managing your wireless connections and keeping your wifi secure. Both are big jobs for these little computers.

The Ubiquiti EdgeRouter-X is a gigabit ethernet router. It is powered by a dual core cpu with 256MB of memory. It costs about $50 and does not have wifi. What it does do is log into CenturyLink’s network and create a firewall, managing the traffic on your network and through the internet. It does this very well. The EdgeRouter-X does have a setup wizard, but that will just create a firewall and connect you to the internet. To do anything else, you will have to manually configure the settings.

To replace a CenturyLink Fiber router (without PRISM TV) with the EdgeRouter-X, use the setup wizard and choose PPPOE. Enter your CenturyLink network username and password along with a VLAN of 201. I retrieved my username and password from CenturyLink online chat support in about 4 mins.
For me, after the wizard completed I could not access the internet, so I deleted the PPPOE interface then manually re-added, re-entering the same username/password CenturyLink credentials. After that, everything worked as expected. You can pm me if you have questions on how to set up.

To create a wifi network, you need to plug in access points to the ethernet router. General rule of thumb is one access point per floor. If you are clever with your placement of the access point, you can cover multiple rooms and floors with a single access point. Instead of figuring out where best to place a single access point, I just used two of the Ubiquiti Ap-AC Lite access points. One is mounted high up on the wall in the bedroom, hidden behind a painting. The second is in the basement ceiling, positioned below the living room. I configured the two access points to use four different 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz frequencies, so devices connecting to any channel will run at full speed. I turned down the power on the upstairs access point, enough that I can receive good signal from my yard but less so at my neighbor’s house.

That’s really it.

When a device connects to the network, it will jump on whichever access point is strongest. It will stay on that access point until it can’t and will attempt a switch over to the next available network.  The only time I notice my phone’s connection freezing up, indicating a switchover is in progress, is when I am driving away from the house. About a block away, the switchover from wifi to cell occurs.  If I happen to be using internet on my phone at that exact time, my iphone behaves odd for a few seconds. Not my wifi’s fault.

I am very happy with the performance of this setup. As I said in the beginning, I have had zero trouble with the router and access points. No need to power cycle anything.

After I installed my ethernet router and access points, I convinced a buddy to do the same. He gave me the same report. After almost a year of use he has seen no internet drop outs, speed issues, or bad wifi connections.


Final note. Let’s talk about bufferbloat. Bufferbloat is the poor performance (lag) that comes from a router buffering too much data.

You can test your network for bufferbloat here. It works by pinging your pc while also performing a large download and upload. The increase in ping is your network’s lag under load.

The best example of bufferbloat is when person A is uploading a photo album from their phone, while person B is playing an online game. The gamer would see pings below 20ms, but then suddenly their game starts glitching as pings increase past 200ms. What is happening is the router’s buffer is getting overloaded by the cell phone. The router’s buffer is a first come first served queue, so your phone can broadcast lots of upload messages and retries filling up the queue. When the queue is full, the router will simply drop any additional messages. Your poor video game sends it’s game data on a scheduled basis, each message either gets trapped in the queue or dropped.

The common suggestion in this situation is to enable QoS (Quality of Service) settings on your router. This will give priority to the few devices you select over others. Beyond QoS, an even better solution is a feature called Smart Queue Management. Instead of giving a single device priority, your router reserves a portion of the buffer. So no single device’s traffic can crowd out others. The result is that all your devices will work at full speed.

I purchased the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter-X because it had the Smart Queue Management feature.

Some technical info on the ER-X’s implementation of Smart Queue:

Xbox One is a Failure, History of a Generation

It is 2018 and the Xbox One came out in 2013. Let’s reminisce​.

Back in the days of Xbox 360, looking forward to the next generations that seemed impossible for Microsoft to do wrong. The Xbox 360 had a massive lead. If you were an online gamer. Shooter, racer, whatever… You owned an Xbox 360. You may have even owned multiple Xbox 360s over the years. I lost count of how many I went through. The Xbox 360 had issues, sure, but that didn’t stop Microsoft from racking up a huge sales in USA. Nearly double the competing PS3.

Quick History Lesson

The early Xbox 360s had a tendency to overheat and die. It had a failure rate of over 50%. Compared to PS3’s failure rate of around 10%. The bad press forced Microsoft to extend everyone’s warranties out to 3 years. The overheat flaw was traced to the formula of the solder used to adhere the chips to the board. Under normal operating temperatures, the solder would melt and allow the chip to come out of position. Entrepreneurs, like myself, made a lot of money repairing broken Xbox 360s. The repair was performed with some bolt hardware, plastic washers, and a good heat gun. Microsoft eventually released updated hardware and their own fix to the hardware with the Xbox 360 Slim.
Second, the Xbox 360’s game copy protection could be broken simply by loading a modified custom firmware to the dvd drive. Creating a modded Xbox 360 required only a serial probe and a PC with a spare SATA port. Owners of modded Xbox 360s were able to play online, but were warned by the community not to. Microsoft eventually cracked down on the seemly rampant abuse, but only in what became known as ban waves that were months apart. Since Microsoft banned hardware and not accounts, a person could sell a banned modded Xbox 360 for near retail cost, buy a new Xbox 360 and swap the hard drive. Play for 6 months to a year, then repeat. Only losing pocket change in the transfer.
The Xbox 360 was still somehow a success. It sold 25 million in USA and 84 million worldwide over the 11 years it was available. Over a similar period, the PS3 sold 13 million in USA and 80 million worldwide. The PS3 had its own problems, but nothing that hit the local or national newscasts like the problems plaguing the Xbox 360.
When the Xbox One was announced, it was thought that Microsoft could do no wrong. Refresh their hardware, 10x the graphics and call it done. Not so fast.

Xbox One Hurdles

Google-able Name

My kneejerk reaction to the announcement of the name for the new Xbox was “that’s a dumb name”. I had owned the original xbox and spent many years as admin on xbox support forums. The lingo for the original xbox didn’t used to be the ‘original xbox’. There was the xbox360 and naturally the xbox1. While writing this, I did some research and quickly found that the dumbness continues. I can’t google xbox 1 without getting the results for both Xbox One and Xbox Original.

System Specs

A lot of talk is given to the raw TFLOP or GFLOP rating of a system. That is, how many Floating Point Operations can be performed per second. To me, the number of FLOPS isn’t all that important unless you are talking 10x difference. After all, the PS3 had 230 GFLOPS vs the Xbox 360’s mere 77 GFLOPS. More than double and the graphics were comparable. Instead, I look to the System or Memory Bandwidth as the real performance indicator of a generation. The Bandwidth is simply amount of data that can be transferred in and out of the cpu, memory, and gpu.
Measuring in system bandwidth, the Xbox 360 had a Front Side Bus capable of about 22 GB/s. Compared to the Original Xbox, the Xbox 360 was a 20x improvement. That corresponded with a huge leap in gaming performance. For the Xbox One, the FSB is gone and replaced by a integrated memory controller. System bandwidth is then rated by the memory bandwidth. The Xbox One was only a 3x improvement over the previous generation, while the PS4 manages 8x.

Xbox1 Xbox 360 Xbox One Xbox One X
1 GB/s 22 GB/s 68 GB/s 326 GB/s
PS2 PS3 PS4 PS4 Pro
1 GB/s 23GB/s 176GB/s 218 GB/s

Microsoft is correcting this in the Xbox One X, but I don’t expect much. In specs, the Xbox One X is the Xbox 360’s true successor. However, the Xbox One was on the market for too long. People saw what it could do and now dismiss anything with the Xbox One name as same old, same old.

Set-top Box

Microsoft executives have had this weird dream for the last few decades. To own the living room. Have their box be the only box you would ever need under your tv. It seems silly these days, with smart TVs and streaming sticks. But back when the Xbox One was released, Microsoft still thought that they had a chance.

Connect the Xbox One to your CableTV box and get these fabulous features:

  • Web enabled TV Guide
  • Voice controlled channel changer
  • Antenna Tuner
  • Gesture controlled channel changer

When the Xbox One was announced, they focused so much on the smart tv features that folks wondered if the Xbox One was a gaming machine at all. You can watch the full announcement on youtube, I am not kidding.

Around the 8 min mark, I’ll summarize. “You think gaming is cool? Let’s not talk about gaming. Let’s talk about watching TV.” The first actual mention of a video game occurs around the 32 min mark.

Fast forward to today, and the TV features are never talked about. The Antenna Tuner is no longer supported. What happened? The features are no longer under active development. They have not received any updates in years, leaving them stranded with 5 year old bugs. The best improvement over the years was replacing the previous voice controls with Cortana and Alexa voice controls.

Under the old voice controls… How many times does it take to say “xbox on” before the system responds? I don’t know. I give up after 3, and just press the button. Cortana is much better. At most two attempts to make the xbox do what I want.

But when the Xbox One was released, it didn’t have Cortana. It had the lame Kinect voice controls.


Let’s talk about Kinect. I love kinect. What a great concept! I am a maker at heart. Microsoft made sure to release a PC adapter cable for kinect. It is really amazing what folks have accomplished with an affordable 3d camera. There are so many projects by companies and students alike that use the kinect as a 3d camera.

The usb adapter was discontinued in Jan 2018. The kinect is a usb device with a proprietary connector. This is not a big deal for tinkerers, there are guides available on how to splice your own usb cable and power supply for the kinect. Microsoft has given up on the concept. Motion gaming never went beyond a gimmick. Which is sad.

The kinect sensor was capable of tracking the motion of a sitting player. So that if you move your head to the side, your player could peak around corners. What a killer feature for a console game! The tech demos I saw with the feature blew my mind. No 3D TV needed, the head tracking allowed you to peak beyond the 2D image on your screen! Microsoft purposefully blocked this type kinect control scheme. They would only approve games with gameplay for a standing player without a controller. Sigh.

Copyright Protection

Everyone made fun of the Xbox One’s copyright protection scheme. Just like a PC, an xbox one disc would come with a single use code. That code would authorize your account to play the game. The primary goal was to eliminate pirating of games. The side effect would be the elimination of used game sales and letting friends / family borrowing your game.

After the initial announcement, Microsoft made a statement that they would make a process to share a game with a friend or family. This sharing process was famously made fun of by Sony

Long story short, Microsoft caved under pressure and returned to the old DRM.

Cost and Sales

The Xbox 360 was released in November 2005 and by 2006 had become a darling. When the PS3 came out in November 2006, it was competing against the Xbox 360 that had been on the market for a whole year. The PS3 was the weaker choice for price, availability, and game catalog. The Xbox 360 was available at every store. The PS3 wasn’t widely available until summer 2007.

For the 2007 season, the Xbox 360 without hard drive was reduced in price to $270. While the Sony elected to instead discontinue the 20GB PS3 model and reduce the price of the 60GB model to $500. Not to be out hard drived, Microsoft released a 120GB model for $450.

2005 HDD Cost
XBox 360 0 GB $300
XBox 360 20 GB $400
2006 HDD Cost
PS3 20 GB $500
PS3 60 GB $600
2007 HDD Cost
XBox 360 0 GB $270
XBox 360 20 GB $350
XBox 360 120 GB $450
PS3 60 GB $500
PS3 80 GB $600

When the Xbox One was released, history was ignored. This time, both the Xbox One and PS4 were released in November 2013 within 1 week of each other! However, with both consoles having weak launch catalogs and low availability, the console wars didn’t heat up until the following year. Even then was disappointing. The PS4 was sold for $100 less. Just as Sony had claimed that their revolutionary Bluray drive was worth the $100 premium, Microsoft claimed their included kinect sensor was worth a $100 premium. Things played out almost exactly as the previous generation, with the roles now reversed.

2013 HDD Cost
PS4 500GB $400
Xbox One w/Kinect 500GB $500
2014 HDD Cost
PS4 500GB $350
Xbox One 500GB $350
Xbox One w/Kinect 500GB $450

Sales were way below expectations on the Xbox One. Within the first year, Microsoft made a new bundle that dropped the kinect and matched the PS4’s price. However, the Xbox One never really recovered. The mindset was locked in. Here are the lifetime sales from 2013 – 2018.

The Future

Backwards Compatibility

Late into the Xbox One’s lifespan, the Xbox One has been making huge strides. The added backwards compatibility is huge. Not only being able to play Xbox 360 and Xbox titles on the Xbox One, but also unlocking digital purchases from the Xbox 360. All playable on modern hardware and upscaled.

Xbox Play Anywhere

This is a feature of some Microsoft games that allows you to buy a game once then play on both Windows 10 and Xbox One. Savegames, achievements, and DLC are all shared.  The impact of being able to purchase once and play anywhere captures what the Xbox One originally tried to achieve.

Xbox Two

The Xbox One X is a good preview of the Xbox Two. However, I expect the high pricing and DRM to make another attempt. Hopefully some VR features to compete with the PC market.

Final Thoughts

  • Folks are quick to dismiss the Xbox One when compared to the PS4 and Nintendo Switch.
  • The 2018 Xbox One is a fully different beast than the launch Xbox One.
  • Can Microsoft learn on the Xbox Two from their missteps with the Xbox One?
  • Will the Xbox One live on as a failed footnote of this gaming generation, or be remembered for what it inspired?

Fake Window – Smart Room Light

This is an overview of my Smart LED Window, based on an instructable by dannyk6. I took mine a step further by adding Alexa voice control and IFTTT day/night schedule. The wife picked the valance fabric.

After remodeling my basement, I was left with the main area that had no natural light source. I didn’t like the idea of adding more nightlights, I could do better. I really wanted a flat panel tv linked to an outdoor camera, so you could see the front porch in real time. I could have the tv mounted vertically and dressed up to look like an actual window. I tried to design this Camera Window a few times on paper, but never came up with anything I liked. The glow from a TV won’t look like natural light in a room.

This Smart LED Fake Window is a good compromise. The 32 feet of LED Strip provides plenty of light. The LED color is set to look like natural sunlight. I have an ITFFF recipe linking the Weather Channel’s Sunset and Sunrise triggers to the LED’s color and brightness. Automated daylight to nightlight cycle. The Alexa commands and phone app allow me to override the schedule with any color and brightness I want.


I went with Select lumber from Menards, as I find it is a little nicer to work with on small projects like this. The trim I picked was a 1/2 inch wider than the 1×3 boards, so I would have a nice inside corner later to staple the fabric to.

Assemble Frame
Figure out how large you want your window. I went with 30×44 inches. Cut the 1×3 boards to make the box frame. Then cut the trim pieces to fit over top. Hammer nails into the back of the 1×3 frame into the trim. You may want to lay down some cardboard to keep the trim from getting marred up. When you have a solid frame, add a coat or two of stain and let dry.
Optional: use a miter saw to angle cut the trim pieces.
Optional: use some extra 1×3 board to add a center rail.

Assemble Reflector
Lay the tag board along the back, and tape together into one sheet. Match the dimensions of the window so you can tape it to the back later. Lay out the sheets of aluminum foil and use the double sided tape. Cover one side of the tag board with aluminum foil, shiny side facing out.

Mount LEDs
Place the frame over the reflector. Mark the inside frame edges on the reflector, so you can see where the lights need to be placed. Measure the space and determine how close the LEDs can be placed before you run out. I went with a spacing of 2.75 inches, making 4 LED strips above and 5 LED strips below my frame’s center rail. Leave enough cable length to plug in the LED control module from outside the window. Peel the LEDs and stick onto the aluminum foil, following a snaking pattern along your marked spacing. Power up the LEDs to make sure everything is working right.

Note: Using a waterproof LED strip is important. As you mount the LEDs, all the twists and folds will inevitability cause the circuit portion of the strip to touch the aluminum foil and short out. The waterproof coating keeps the LED strip face from shorting out when it touches the aluminum foil.

Note: At first I started with 16 feet of LED strip and a spacing of 5.5 inches. Matching the source instructable I followed. The gaps proved to be too wide for my reflector / diffuser to handle. Leaving me with large darkened areas between the light strips. I then picked up a second roll of LED strip, giving me 32 feet total. The light coverage is much better now.

Mount Diffuser
Lay the window frame face down. Cut the fabric, so it covers the window frame with some overhang. We will trim the fabric later. To install the fabric, use a staple gun. Staple one side of the fabric down, with a staple every inch or two. Then before stapling the second side, use your hand to stretch the fabric TIGHT. Repeat. Staple first side, stretch fabric to the second side, staple second side.
Once all the staples are in place if the fabric still looks too loose, you can use a pliers to pull some of the staples and try again.

Mount Reflector and LEDs
I used aluminum tape to install the reflector to the back of the window frame. We want to block any light from escaping from the back and disturbing the illusion.

Final Cleanup
Install the blind, curtain rod, and valance. Mount to the wall. I used velcro to mount so the window frame wouldn’t move around, but I could still pull down in case of maintenance.

Here are my IFTTT recipes

Supernatural Thermal Scanner Prop (Laser EMF Reader)

Supernatural Laser EMF

This is my Laser EMF reader, aka Thermal Scanner prop. The Lasers, LCD, and Camera are all functional. In addition, I added gearing to the back so the Lasers could perform a synchronized linear scan.

From the supernatural TV show, there are a variety of EMF Readers used. Especially early on. This paper outlines many of the different variations.

The handheld device seen in episode S01E14 is not an EMF Reader, it is a Thermal Scanner.  I have made a few of these now and have enough pictures to make this write up.

Part List:


3D Printing:
The 3D printed parts are optional. I designed them to both hold the lasers and allow them to move in sync. If you opt not to use the 3D printed parts, you can substitute christmas light holders instead.

Supernatural Laser EMF Supernatural Laser EMF - 5

Some of the terminal blocks are blue and need to be painted silver. Poke the terminals into some cardboard to hold upright. Spray paint before soldering into the circuit board.

With the Screw Terminals installed, you have a sense of how the board is laid out. You can see that the breadboard is too long. Use a saw or dremel to trim the board shorter. If the edge is jagged, cover with electrical tape.

Supernatural Laser EMF

This is mostly a wiring project. Most of the wires you see running around the prop are real. There are two voltages on the board, 9V and 3V. Both run to the Slide Switch, which is DPDT with two isolated switching paths.

Wiring 9V Path: The 9V comes from a pair of 9V batteries wired in parallel to increase run time of the LCD. After the Slide Switch, the 9V is wired to power the LCD, Camera, and LEDs.

Wiring 3V Path: The 3V comes from the 2xAA and powers the lasers. After the Slide Switch, the 3V is wired to a momentary button, and finally the lasers. Polarity is not marked on the lasers, so be careful when soldering on some power wires. After powering on for the first time, the lasers need to be tuned. Take a screwdriver and spin the potentiometer on the lasers. 5 turns counter-clockwise to reset, then slowly bring the laser back on. The green lasers I linked are only 10mW, but they sell more powerful laser diodes that can be dangerous. Be careful when working with the lasers. You want them set to the lowest brightness that they can be seen across a room.

Supernatural Laser EMF

Camera Wiring: Before doing anything, test the LCD and Camera by using the cables supplied in the combo kit. Power up with a 9V battery. After confirming you did not receive a DOA device, you can proceed with cutting the cables.

The cables that come with the LCD and Camera are meant for automotive installs. I cut these wires much shorter and splice back together. Do note that the camera likely has a black lump on the cable. This blob likely contains a 12V -> 5V converter. When splicing the cables shorter, keep this block intact and splice around, do not remove.

Supernatural Laser EMF - 6

– Backup car lines on LCD are caused by the camera drawing them. Using a non-backup camera should fix.
– Lasers are difficult to tune so they are the same brightness.